If you’ve ever stood in front of your mirror wondering whether your skincare is doing anything below the surface—this one’s for you. Skin absorption is one of those mysterious concepts that’s often thrown around in beauty marketing, but rarely unpacked. Let’s decode what actually gets in, what stays out, and why plants are uniquely equipped to deliver the goods.

Size Matters

Your skin is like a velvet rope outside an exclusive club—it only lets in the right VIPs. That top layer, the stratum corneum, is made to keep things out, not soak everything up like a sponge.

Enter the 500 Dalton Rule. For an ingredient to pass through the skin’s protective barrier, it needs to:

• Be smaller than 500 Daltons
• Be lipophilic (oil-loving)
• Be uncharged

This is why things like collagen and hyaluronic acid mostly sit on top of the skin. They’re wonderful moisturizers and plumpers, but don’t expect them to reach the dermis where collagen production happens—they’re simply too big.

What Does Penetrate?

Some molecules are just the right size, structure, and solubility to get in and actually affect skin function.

🌿 Menthol

Found in peppermint oil, this small, lipophilic compound can penetrate deeply enough to interact with nerve receptors—providing that unmistakable cooling, pain-relieving sensation. It's one of nature’s best topical analgesics which is why we added it our Mint Eucalyptus Bath Salts and Bath Cubes.

🌿 Sea Buckthorn Oil

This vibrant orange oil is one of nature’s most skin-compatible actives. Rich in beta-carotene, retinoic acid precursors, and rare omega-7 fatty acids, sea buckthorn oil can penetrate the epidermis and support collagen synthesis, skin regeneration, and wound healing. Its small, oil-soluble actives are highly bioavailable, making it a true dermal multitasker—without the irritation of synthetic retinoids. It's a key ingredient in our Carotene Glow Antioxidant Booster.

🌿 Rosehip Oil

Packed with natural vitamin A acid esters, rosehip oil is another dermal superstar. These compounds are oil-soluble and small enough to penetrate into the epidermis, encouraging healthy cell turnover and supporting firmer, more elastic skin over time. We offer certified organic Rosehip Oil on its own or in our Rosey Cheeks Facial Cream and Facial Oil as well as our Carotene Glow Antioxidant Booster.

⚠️ Parabens

These small synthetic preservatives also penetrate—unfortunately. They’ve been detected in urine, breast tissue, and even umbilical cord blood. The issue isn’t just that they get in, it’s that they bioaccumulate, and may act as endocrine disruptors over time. Not exactly what we’re going for in a daily face cream.

Water vs. Oil: A Tale of Two Molecules

How something dissolves—in water vs. oil—plays a big role in how well it absorbs.

💧 Water-soluble ingredients

Take Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). It’s a potent antioxidant, but water-soluble and hydrophilic (water-loving), which makes it tricky to deliver into the skin’s oily barrier. 

🪔 Oil-soluble ingredients

Vitamin E (tocopherol), on the other hand, is oil-soluble and naturally present in many plant oils. It glides through the lipid layers of your skin, delivering antioxidant benefits directly where your cells can use them. Your skin gets Vitamin E—no need for fancy tricks.

Plant Oils: Nature’s Delivery System

Here’s where it gets really interesting. Some plant-based oils don’t just moisturize—they act as penetration enhancers:

Oleic Acid (found in olive, avocado, and almond oils) can slightly disrupt the skin barrier, allowing actives to penetrate more easily. It’s nourishing but may be too rich for acne-prone skin.

Linoleic Acid (found in rosehip, grapeseed, and sunflower oils) strengthens the skin while still improving penetration—making it ideal for sensitive and oily skin types.

Think of these natural fatty acids as botanical Uber drivers—delivering active ingredients like sea buckthorn compounds or vitamin E derivatives deeper into your skin. No petroleum needed.

Why Plants Win

Petroleum-based ingredients like mineral oil and petrolatum? Sure, they seal in moisture—but they don’t feed your skin. They sit on the surface and block evaporation, but they offer zero nourishment and zero interaction with your biology.

Plant-based skincare, on the other hand, is full of bioavailable nutrients, lipids, and antioxidants that your skin recognizes, absorbs, and uses. They don’t just make your skin look better—they help it function better.

TL;DR?

Skin absorption is about more than just rubbing something in. It’s chemistry, biology, and physics all rolled into one. The best ingredients are small, oil-loving, and smartly delivered—something plants do naturally. So the next time you treat your skin to a botanical serum, know this: you’re not just putting something on, you’re giving your skin exactly what it needs.