In the world of skincare, fragrance materials are a common yet often misunderstood ingredient. Whether they come from synthetic sources or natural essential oils, fragrance materials can have a significant impact on your skin. One of the primary concerns about these ingredients is that many of them are classified as Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs). But what exactly makes VOCs problematic for skin health? The answer lies in their molecular weight and how they penetrate the skin.
Why VOCs Are a Concern in Skincare
Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) are chemical compounds that easily evaporate at room temperature i.e. if you can smell it in the air, it's a VOC. Due to their low molecular weight, VOCs can penetrate the skin more easily than substances with a higher molecular weight, such as emollients. While emollients sit on the surface of the skin, providing moisture and protection, VOCs can penetrate deeper, potentially triggering irritation or allergic reactions.
This ability to penetrate the skin quickly raises concerns, especially when dealing with synthetic fragrances, which may contain harmful chemicals like phthalates. These chemicals not only cause skin irritation but can also accumulate in the body over time, leading to more serious health issues such as endocrine disruption. Phthalates have been detected in cord blood samples of newborns . This finding suggests that phthalates can cross the placental barrier, exposing fetuses to these potentially harmful chemicals even before birth.
How Molecular Weight Affects Skin Penetration
To understand why VOCs are more likely to penetrate the skin, it's essential to know how molecular weight plays a role. The skin's outermost layer, the stratum corneum, acts as a barrier, allowing only certain molecules to pass through. Generally, smaller molecules—those with lower molecular weights—can penetrate the skin more easily than larger ones.
Essential Oils: Therapeutic vs. Harmful
Not all VOCs are bad for the skin. Many essential oils contain VOCs in the form of terpenes, which can have therapeutic properties when used in the correct dosage. For instance, linalool and linalyl acetate, terpenes found in lavender essential oil, are well-known for their anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. In this case, the ability of chemicals to penetrate the skin is welcomed, as it helps reduce redness and calm irritation.
However, it’s crucial to use essential oils carefully. While they contain beneficial compounds, using them in the wrong concentrations can lead to skin irritation or sensitivity, especially for people with delicate or sensitive skin. At Cocoon, we are mindful of these factors and formulate our products with the appropriate dosages of essential oils, ensuring that they offer therapeutic benefits without overwhelming the skin.
Choosing Therapeutic Skincare
Given the concerns surrounding VOCs, particularly in synthetic fragrances, it’s important to choose skincare products that either avoid fragrances altogether or use essential oils in a way that benefits your skin. At Cocoon Apothecary, we prioritize transparency and safety in our formulations. When we do use essential oils, they are carefully selected for their therapeutic properties, ensuring that they not only smell great but also contribute positively to skin health.
Fragrance materials in skincare can be a double-edged sword. While synthetic fragrances, with their VOCs and low molecular weight, may cause irritation and penetrate the skin in unwanted ways, essential oils—when used in the right concentrations—can offer therapeutic benefits. Understanding the science behind molecular weight and skin penetration is key to choosing the right products. For healthier, happier skin, consider using fragrance-free products or those that employ essential oils therapeutically, like Cocoon Apothecary’s formulations. Your skin deserves the best, and thoughtful ingredients make all the difference.