I get asked this a lot — “Why don’t you use vitamin C in your skincare?” It’s a fair question. Vitamin C has become a bit of a buzzword in the beauty world, and it’s known for being a powerhouse antioxidant. But after years of formulating and seeing how ingredients behave in real life (not just in theory), I made the decision to leave it out of our Cocoon Apothecary products. Here’s why:
1. It’s really unstable
Pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is extremely sensitive to light, air, and heat. The moment it’s exposed to any of these, it starts to oxidize — meaning it breaks down and loses its potency. Oxidized vitamin C isn’t just ineffective — it can actually become pro-oxidant, doing more harm than good. I’ve seen products turn brown or smell off within weeks. That’s not something I feel good about offering.
To get around this, many brands use synthetic derivatives of vitamin C that are more stable and easier to deliver into the skin. But even then, those derivatives still need to be carefully engineered with special delivery systems to be effective. It’s a lot of chemistry and processing — and for us, that just doesn’t align with the way we like to formulate: using whole, unrefined botanicals that work in synergy with your skin, not against it.
2. It can irritate the skin
To keep vitamin C stable, it often has to be formulated at a very low pH (acidic). That’s tough on the skin barrier and not ideal for people with sensitive, dry, or mature skin. I’ve always prioritized gentle, nourishing ingredients that support your skin — not ones that risk leaving it red or reactive.
3. It’s essential — but best taken internally
Vitamin C is absolutely crucial for healthy skin — just not always through a serum. It plays a major role in collagen synthesis, which keeps our skin firm and resilient. But the most reliable way for your body to use vitamin C for collagen production is through your diet. When you eat foods rich in vitamin C (like citrus, bell peppers, berries, and leafy greens), your body delivers it where it’s needed — including the deeper layers of your skin where collagen is actually made. Topical vitamin C doesn’t penetrate that deeply or consistently.
4. There are better, more natural ways to get similar results
Instead of relying on a single, fussy ingredient, I prefer to build formulas that are naturally rich in antioxidants and skin-brightening compounds. Think rosehip oil, sea buckthorn, green tea, and avocado. These ingredients not only give your skin a gorgeous glow, but they’re also stable, gentle, and in harmony with your skin — and the planet.
So yes, vitamin C is important — just not in the way you might expect. Feed your body the nutrients it needs, and let us take care of your skin’s surface with ingredients that are stable, effective, and deeply nourishing.
As always, if you have questions about ingredients or want help picking the right products for your skin, I’m here.
— Jessica