If you have sensitive skin, reactive skin, or simply care about what touches your face every day, surfactants are not a boring chemistry detail. They are one of the most important decisions a skincare brand makes.
Surfactants are the ingredients that clean. They allow oil and water to mix, lift dirt from the skin, and rinse it away. But not all surfactants behave the same way, and not all of them belong on facial skin.
At Cocoon Apothecary, surfactant choice is one of the quiet places where our formulation philosophy really shows.
Let’s break it down.
The 3 Main Types of Surfactants (And Why They Matter)
Surfactants are classified by their electrical charge. That charge determines how aggressive they are, how they interact with skin proteins, and how likely they are to disrupt your skin barrier.
1. Anionic Surfactants
The strongest cleansers
How they work:
Anionic surfactants carry a negative charge. They bind extremely well to oils and dirt, which makes them very effective cleansers. Unfortunately, they bind just as efficiently to your skin’s own proteins and lipids.
Common INCI names include:
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
- Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
- Sodium Coco-Sulfate
- Soap-based surfactants like Sodium Olivate, Sodium Palmate
Where they belong:
- Body washes
- Hand soaps
- Shampoos
- Bar soaps
Where they don’t:
- Sensitive facial skin
- Compromised skin barriers
- Rosacea- or acne-prone skin
These surfactants clean fast and hard. That squeaky-clean feeling is actually your skin barrier being stripped.
2. Amphoteric (Zwitterionic) Surfactants
The middle ground
How they work:
Amphoteric surfactants can carry either a positive or negative charge depending on pH. This makes them milder than anionic surfactants and more skin-compatible, especially when blended with other gentle cleansers.
Common INCI names include:
- Cocamidopropyl Betaine
- Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
- Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate
Where they belong:
- Gentle body cleansers
- Baby products
- Some facial cleansers (when well-formulated)
They can still be irritating for very sensitive skin, but they are a big step up from sulfates.
3. Non-Ionic Surfactants
The gold standard for sensitive skin
How they work:
Non-ionic surfactants have no electrical charge. Because of this, they interact far less aggressively with skin proteins and lipids. They cleanse by loosening dirt rather than ripping it away.
Common INCI names include:
- Coco Glucoside
- Decyl Glucoside
- Lauryl Glucoside
- Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
These are sugar-based surfactants, typically derived from coconut fatty alcohols and glucose.
Where they belong:
- Facial cleansers
- Sensitive skin formulas
- Barrier-supportive cleansing products
This is where Cocoon lives.
Why Cocoon Chooses Coco Glucoside
Coco Glucoside is a non-ionic surfactant, and it aligns perfectly with how we believe skin should be cleansed.
It is:
- Extremely mild
- Non-stripping
- Biodegradable
- Accepted by natural and organic certification bodies
- Suitable for sensitive and reactive skin
Most importantly, it cleans without disrupting the skin barrier.
This matters because cleansing is the first step in every skincare routine. If you damage the barrier at step one, no serum or cream can fully undo that.
Our facial cleansers are designed to remove impurities while respecting:
- Your skin’s lipid matrix
- Your microbiome
- Your natural moisture levels
That is why they never foam aggressively and never leave skin tight.
How This Relates to Our Saponified Bar Soaps
Here’s where nuance matters.
Cocoon also makes true soap — traditional saponified bar soaps created by reacting oils with lye. These are, by definition, anionic surfactants.
So why do we make them?
Because context matters.
Saponified soap:
- Is excellent for hands and body
- Has a naturally high pH
- Is incredibly effective at removing heavy soil
- Is long-lasting and low-waste
What it is not ideal for:
- Daily facial cleansing
- Sensitive or compromised facial skin
This is why we do not position our bar soaps as facial cleansers. Even beautifully made soap is still soap, and facial skin has very different needs than the skin on your hands or body.
Using the right surfactant for the right job is part of responsible formulation.
What’s Appropriate for Sensitive Facial Skin
For facial skin, especially if it is:
- Sensitive
- Dehydrated
- Acne-prone
- Rosacea-prone
- Barrier-impaired
Look for:
- Non-ionic surfactants
- Low-foam formulas
- pH-balanced cleansers
- Short, intentional INCI lists
Avoid:
- Sulfates
- High-foam cleansers
- True soap on the face
- “Squeaky clean” sensations
Clean skin should feel calm, comfortable, and balanced — not tight.
The Cocoon Philosophy: Gentle by Design
We formulate with the understanding that skin health is cumulative. What you do every morning and every night matters more than the occasional active.
Choosing coco glucoside over harsher surfactants is not a marketing decision for us. It’s a long-term skin health decision.
Because cleansing should support your skin — not challenge it.
Your skin already works hard enough.