Why Retinol is Overrated (and Sometimes Harmful)

Why Retinol is Overrated (and Sometimes Harmful)

The beauty industry has a habit of clinging to one “miracle” ingredient and marketing it to death. Right now, that ingredient is retinol—a form of vitamin A that’s been glorified as the ultimate solution for aging, acne, and uneven skin tone. But here’s the truth: retinol is overrated, overused, and in many cases, damaging to the skin barrier.

How Retinol Can Damage the Skin Barrier

Retinol is an active that forces skin cells to turn over faster. While that sounds appealing in theory, in practice it can create a host of issues:

  • Barrier disruption: Increases transepidermal water loss, leaving skin dry, flaky, and more vulnerable.

  • Irritation and inflammation: Causes redness, burning, and stinging, especially for sensitive or reactive skin.

  • Increased sun sensitivity: Weakens the barrier’s natural defense against UV rays, increasing the risk of photo damage.

  • Compromised microbiome: Frequent irritation can disturb the balance of beneficial skin microbes.

  • Chronic sensitivity: Long-term use at high percentages can leave the skin perpetually compromised, making it less resilient.

When your barrier is constantly under attack, you’re not creating “healthy” skin—you’re creating dependent, stressed skin that requires constant repair.

What Percentage of Retinol is Ideal?

  • 0.1–0.3%: A low, tolerable amount that most people can handle.

  • 0.5%: Considered “moderate,” but irritation is common.

  • 1% and above: Marketed as “medical grade” but often too harsh for long-term use.

In Canada, non-prescription retinol products are legally limited to 1%. Anything higher falls under prescription retinoids (such as tretinoin), which are regulated for safety reasons.

Who Should Avoid Retinol?

  • Sensitive or reactive skin types (eczema, rosacea, dermatitis).

  • Those with a compromised barrier (constant dryness, redness, flaking).

  • Pregnant or breastfeeding women, since high doses of vitamin A can be harmful.

  • Anyone using other strong actives like AHAs, BHAs, or benzoyl peroxide (risk of over-exfoliation and chemical burns).

Why Retinol is Regulated

Retinol isn’t just a “cosmetic ingredient”—it’s pharmacologically active. It affects cell behavior, which is why health authorities regulate it. Higher strengths can lead to skin damage, vitamin A toxicity when overused, and sun sensitivity that increases cancer risk if people aren’t diligent with SPF. Regulation exists to protect consumers from the long-term consequences of misuse.

The Myth of “Medical Grade”

Here’s another industry trick: slapping the term “medical grade” on high-strength retinol products. This is pure marketing—“medical grade” isn’t a legal or medical term. It’s designed to make you believe that stronger equals better. But stronger often equals harsher, and harsher rarely equals healthier. Skin thrives on balance, not on constant assault.

A Smarter Alternative: Beta-Carotene

Instead of forcing the skin into overdrive with synthetic retinol, we prefer beta-carotene (from plants like rosehip and sea buckthorn). Here’s why:

  • Pro-vitamin A: The body intelligently converts beta-carotene into retinoic acid as needed—no more, no less.

  • Barrier friendly: Unlike retinol, it doesn’t strip or irritate the skin.

  • Antioxidant power: Neutralizes free radicals, protecting against oxidative stress.

  • Skin nourishment: Delivered in oils and extracts that hydrate while supporting skin health.

In other words, beta-carotene respects your skin’s intelligence instead of bulldozing it.

Retinol may have a place in dermatology, but the beauty industry has turned it into a one-note obsession, often at the expense of long-term skin health. If your skincare routine leaves your face red, peeling, and desperate for hydration, that isn’t progress—it’s damage.

Healthy skin isn’t created through constant exfoliation and irritation. It’s created through nourishment, protection, and balance. That’s why we choose plant-based antioxidants like beta-carotene—they work with the skin, not against it.

Skip the harsh retinol—our Carotene Glow Antioxidant Booster gives you the glow without the irritation. 

 

 

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